By 1 pm not far from the summit, they decided to retreat and had to descend without the wands to guide them. However, higher altitude and the weeks of hard effort slowed their progress and then the weather changed. They left for the summit at 1:30 am on June 3 and having reached the southeast shoulder by mid-morning, they were feeling so confident that they left the willow wands behind. After waiting out the snowstorm for six days at lower camp, they made their way back up to high camp on June 2. However, the weather turned and they were forced to descend after an overnight coating of snow. On May 25, they established high camp at 2,740 m (8,990 ft) after making significant progress up a ridge on a rare day of good weather. They ascended the glacier from base camp and setup camp at 1,520 m (4,987 ft) on the mountain's south face. Due to deep snow, they realized that skis and snowshoes would be of great help so Carpe and Moore made the 80 km (50 mi) round trip to fetch them from Lituya Bay. From base camp in a spot they called Paradise Valley, they decided to attempt the mountain from the south rather than via the west ridge. Backtracking 21 kilometres (13 mi) along the coast, they made their way to the Fairweather Glacier. They reached Lituya Bay and unloaded their supplies on the beach. In early April the group began their approach by boat but stormy weather delayed them rounding Cape Fairweather until April 17. Ladd, Andy Taylor returned in 1931 along with a new member Terry Moore. Īfter failing to reach the summit in 1926 due to terrain difficulty on their chosen route, Allen Carpe, W.S. 1973 Southwest Ridge, Peter Metcalf, Henry Florschutz, Toby O'Brien and Lincoln Stoller.1968 West Ridge, Loren Adkins, Walter Gove, Paul Myhre, John Neal and Kent Stokes – summit reached J.1958 Paddy Sherman and 7 other Canadians reached the summit via the SE Ridge on June 26, 1958.1931 Allen Carpe and Terris Moore summited via the Southeast Ridge on J.1930 Bradford Washburn also made an attempt on the West Ridge but traveling conditions forced a retreat at 2,040 metres (6,690 ft).Ladd reached 2,890 m (9,480 ft) on the West Ridge, but were forced back due to a steep notch in the ridge that made ferrying supplies very difficult. 1926 Allen Carpe, Andy Taylor and W.S.No documented attempt at climbing the mountain had been successful until 1931. It receives over 100 inches (254 cm) of precipitation each year (mostly snow) and sees temperatures of around −50 ☏ (−46 ☌). Their children, the mountains in between the two peaks, are called Tsalxhaan Yatx'i (Children of Tsalxaan.) Weather ĭespite its name, Mount Fairweather has generally harsh weather conditions. Elias) were originally next to each other but had an argument and separated. Known in the Tlingit language as Tsalxhaan, it is said this mountain and Yaas'éit'aa Shaa ( Mt. However, due to poor weather in the area, this effect is usually obscured with the clouds which often hides the summit from view. Elias Mountains, Mount Fairweather has great vertical relief due to its dramatic rise from Glacier Bay. Mount Fairweather also marks the northwest extremity of the Alaska Panhandle. Mount Fairweather is located right above Glacier Bay in the Fairweather Range of the Saint Elias Mountains. įairweather was first climbed in 1931 by Allen Carpé and Terris Moore. It was called "Schönwetterberg" by Constantin Grewingk in 1850 and "Schönwetter Berg" by Justus Perthes in 1882. Chart 1378 in 1847, and "G Fayerveder" by Captain Tebenkov (1852, map 7), Imperial Russian Navy. Buen-tiempo" by Galiano (1802, map 3), "Gor-Khoroshy-pogody" on Russian Hydrographic Dept. Beautemps" by La Perouse (1786, atlas), "Mte. The name has been translated into many languages. The mountain was named on May 3, 1778, by Captain James Cook, apparently for the unusually good weather encountered at the time. It is also designated as Boundary Peak 164 or as US/Canada Boundary Point #164. Most of the mountain lies within Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in the City and Borough of Yakutat, Alaska, though the summit borders Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park, British Columbia. It is located 20 km (12 mi) east of the Pacific Ocean on the Canada–United States border between Alaska and western British Columbia. Mount Fairweather (officially gazetted as Fairweather Mountain in Canada but referred to as Mount Fairweather), is the highest mountain in the Canadian province of British Columbia, with an elevation of 4,653 metres (15,266 ft). Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Alaska / Stikine Region, British Columbia Mount Fairweather (British Columbia) Show map of British Columbia
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